apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

Vals is actually high up a mountain and absolutely gorgeous.

A Swiss native, Peter Zumthor's work is well worth checking out if you are fortunate enough to be in that country. He was a recipient of the Pritzker Prize in the late 90's.

I went to the baths at Vals and it was absolutely amazing. You must reserve a spot in advance. We were able to make it a day trip from Zurich (train to a bus which went up the mountain). My friends from Zurich are used to going to natural spring baths in the area, but they all admitted this place is very special. The Swiss made it a national landmark almost as soon as it was completed.

There are also lounge rooms for quiet relaxation as well as two other bathing rooms - one with a high rusicated quartzite vault (amazing acoustics) and another with the water filled with flower petal infusions.

After living in Western Ireland, German city and countryside, and all over Italy, I have to say the baths at Vals rank with the top three places I've been in Europe.

The hotel associated with the baths also has an incredible menu and by Swiss standards theday trip we made was actually quite affordable.

I have been there & it is AMAZING!!!
I took a detour from a ski trip to see it... a funicular, 3 trains and a scary bus trip up mountain-side roads - well worth it.

I was there alone, and had to bite my tongue not to laugh out loud to myself at my excitement. The details are beautiful - the stone changing texture in the different baths at the waterline, the lighting, everything! I especially loved the bath with the flower petals floating in the water.

A tip: Zumthor also remodeled a handful of rooms in the hotel - if you go, request one. They cost a little more, but after seeing the 'regular' rooms (walked past while housekeeping was in one) I'd say they are well worth it. Espeically if you can get one of the corner rooms!

GO GO GO!
NOW!

And I can't believe that no one mentioned that you can access the outdoor pool shown on the top left THROUGH the pool - so you walk from a spa area through nice warm shoulder-height water to the outside, and can comfortably enjoy spectacular alpine views even when it is below freezing outside. All throughout the complex, windows are placed to precisely frame gorgeous views.

This is truly a special, magical place and not even that expensive if you stay in one of the not-that-nice basic rooms as I did. The treatments are also amazing - after having a massage that was the equivalent of a month of chiropractor sessions I swear I was taller.

A word of caution though: I rented a car and drove since I only had a few days for my trip and was white-knuckling it the whole way. The roads are tiny and treacherous (particularly since it was snowing while I was there), and since Vals is the Swiss equivalent to Evian, you'll routinely have to squeeze to the side of the road while an enormous truck laden with bottled water speeds by. But it's worth it!

i went to vals on what we fondly referred to as "the cross-europe architectural death march" and had a wonderful much-needed day at the baths. we were on a budget so we didnt stay at the spa (the baths are amazing, the hotel only so-so), but ended up in what i think is a much more charming inn- the Alpina.
http://www.hotel-alpina-vals.ch/
If you go, make sure to save time for a walk in the surrounding hills, between the baths, the summer sun and the fresh air you cant really have a much better day.

I wonder if it can beat an authentic outdoor Japanese Onsen (rotenburo for the purist) perched on the mountains in Hokkaido at winter time?

I went to one rotenburo in a secluded area around Niseko, the place feels like a million year old, with traditional Japanese structures which is copied throughout the world as "minimalist" style. The rotenburo was nothing but a rocky hole, alimented with a soft stream of geothermally heated water. There is nothing around you but nature, trees, snow and rocks.

Not very accessible as you have to hike and walk a lot through meters of snow.

Total cost of the trip + a couple glasses of home-brewed beer = less than 5000 Yen.... the most majestically aesthetic experience of my life...

....we fondly referred to as "the cross-europe architectural death march"...HAHAHAHAHA!

I've been on one of those in Spain and Portugal with my last college roommate and the woman who took my room when I moved out. The one that has had us both as roomies will love that phrase! She has photos of the blisters on her feet to prove it.