apartment therapy changing the world, one room at a time

Hey, can anyone point me in the direction of some modern bathroom vanity cabinet manufacturers? While I have a glass basin sink, it's time to face reality that it's just NOT functional for a main bathroom. It's tough to keep clean, I have no real counter space, etc. I think I need something with more countertop to mount the sink on, or even something integral. Click my name for pics.

I participate in some real estate blogs, and man they get nasty. AT is real refreshing that way -- let's all strive to KATC -- Keep Apartment Therapy Civil!

Back to our apartments -- a woman was injured last week when an air-conditioner fell on her. If you don't already have one, I strongly urge getting an FDNY approved ac support bracket for safety's sake -- they can be had for only $35 at Home Depot or PC Richards (that I know of, there must be other vendors).

Click on my name to see an amusing but totally unacceptable ac support!

I am one week away from closing on a small studio in Soho. I have had 5 months to fantasize about the small fixer-upper studio and all its potential: clipping images, collecting wallpaper and paint swatches, visiting countless stores and galleries, and now that I am a week away from getting the keys, I am terrified.

I will have the month of July to renovate and intend to move in to the space in August.

In this ONE month I have allowed myself, I will need to renovate the bathroom (floor, toilet, sink, closets), install new kitchen cabinets (planning to use an Ikea installer unless I meet a contractor who can and wants to install decent cabinetry) and appliances, install new flooring and paint (white wash the open brick wall and old hard wood floors)...HELP: I have some referrals for contractors and an idea of what I would like to do, but I am not sure where to begin.

What is the logical order of renovations?

Can all of this be done in one month?

Can all of this be done for 30k?

Can someone please justify my wanting a 30" viking range when I only have 30k for all of my renovations?

Any and all comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.

BK, I have no idea if it can be done, but I suspect your biggest problem may be finding a contractor who is available on such short notice. Also, have you ordered your cabinets yet? Sometimes they take a while.

Regarding the flooring, I recommend Verazzano flooring, who were available at relatively short notice, quoted a reasonable price, did it right on schedule, and did a fantastic job. Good luck to you.

Frank, falling air conditioners is one of my biggest fears! Thanks for urging others to make sure they are properly supported.

I have question about ottoman slip-covers. I am looking for a simple, natural canvas slip cover for two ottomans. I have found many how-to sites but I have so many home improvement projects on the list that I was hoping to find some that are ready-made. Many of the sites I have found only have slipcovers for ottomans that are skirts, not really my style. Does anyone have any suggestions for where I might find more fitted slipcovers for ottomans? Thanks in advance, I'm really happy to see the OT is back. : )

Take a deep breath, BK.

Priorities.

Fix things that don't work first. It might be unattractive to you right now, but if it's still working, you've given yourself time to work on it later.

AND

Renovate/repair things you really can't do without before moving in. You can't really do without a toilet or shower/bath. You may be able to get by without a bath sink, if the kitchen sink is in working order. But, you can't really use the bathroom sink for washing dishes too well.

There's nothing wrong with IKEA cabinets. They rate VERY GOOD with Consumer Reports. Do a search on this site for the many IKEA posts. Including the cabinet one. Check out also www.ikeafans.com for tons of before/after pictures.

IKEA also has appliances, in smaller sizes, well suited to apartment living.

I can't justify a large range without knowing the size of your home, the extent of your cooking skills, and how much everything else costs. Frankly, all I need is one burner. I never bake anymore.

Renovate for how you live, not how you think you will live or how you want to live. If you become a world-class chef, you'll probably buy a bigger place anyway.

Lastly, if you don't have someone "booked" at this point, you may not be able to get everything done. THIS IS OKAY. You want the job done RIGHT? Or do you want the job done FAST? They are NOT always the same thing.

If you can, we'd all love to see before, during and after pictures. You can set up a free Flickr account to post them on. Best wishes on your new place!

BK -

First, congratulations! How exciting. I've been in my place for over a year, and my experience is that doing a reno is a PROCESS. I wouldn't encourage rushing into it. For me, I know that I've taken it very slowly because I wanted to "feel" my space first, live in it and know the lighting and flow of the unit. In other words, I've done things one bit at a time. My advice is not to get too ambitious and to first really get acquainted with the place and go from there.

It has been already over a year and I still haven't started the kitchen renovations, but I'm glad I've waited a bit so that I can really know what I want. (And it's easy on the funds, too!)

Good luck!!!

Before my parents had central A/C, my little sister tried putting in her own window unit one summer. Not only did the a/c fall, but it took a significant portion of the new shingles, shutters, and exterior trim with it as it scraped down the outside of the house.

Re: the viking range, my quick answer would be 'no'. If you are only getting the 30" model, save the $ and get a less expensive brand. Unless you are really hell-bent on boiling water a whole minute faster, don't spend 10% of your budget on something that isn't as aesthetically important as a good floor or good lighting. Think about the visual space that the stove takes up, then think about the rest of the project. Take it from someone who's been there & done that.

BK,

I don't think it can be done in a month, but there's no harm in asking. However, if you use different people to install the cabinets and do the bathroom, maybe. For something similar, our quotes were 6-8 weeks. Maybe do the bathroom and the cabinets, and do the rest with you in the apartment?

I also have a question for the open thread...I believe someone here talked about a place that specializes in doing picture matting. I can't find it with a search, so maybe I saw it somewhere else? If anyone has any leads, let me know.

Thanks!

Hi Fiona,

Did you say you had 6 - 8 weeks for the bathroom cabinets or kitchen cabinets?

bk, good luck with finding a contractor. i've been looking around for my own kitchen reno and all i have gotten is missed appointments.

anyone have thoughts on hanging unframed textiles on the wall?

BK--

I thnk what you describe is VERY ambitious in a one-month schedule, especially in the summer months.

BK: Go to the nearest bookstore. Go straight to the home improvement section. Choose a book that gives a frank, basic once-over of the renovation process. I don't have a definite recommendation because my fave is out of print, but the For-Dummies-type books are often pretty much on track. Basically, just thumb through the book until you find a timeline of what order to do a full renovation in, as well as guidelines for figuring costs. When you find it, buy that book.

'Cause honestly, it's too complicated to do in a posting.

At this point, I would think seriously about scaling down your expectations for what will happen in July, unless your plans are mostly cosmetic and/or all supplies are available off-the-shelf. Having grown up in a family where renovation was a way of life, worked for an engineering firm, and done rehab (on time and within budget!) -- I would want more than two weeks' lead time to make a whole-apt rehab hit the road.

BK - Why not go with the 24" Viking range instead? And welcome to Soho! ('m in a studio too - on Thompson St.)

I'm convinced there is nice brick behind the plaster wall in my kitchen, and I'd love to tear off the plaster to expose the brick.

Has anyone had any experience exposing a brick wall? How do I go about doing this? Can I do it myself? I don't have many tools, but I can rent them at the local lumber yard.

The ceiling is pretty high (maybe 10') and the wall is probably 14 feet wide. There is only a small cabinet in the bottom corner and aside from that the wall is bare. I'm in Toronto - so NYC resources probably won't help, but if you have a book to recommend, I'm sure I could find it.

I'm moving into my own apartment on July 1st- yipee! I'm so excited to decorate.

Here's a paint question: I know I want to buy a red couch (probably an IKEA), and I think I want to paint my living room pink. Two Qs- what shade of pink should I go with? And what color would be good for my bedroom (the other room in the apartment- it's just two rooms)? I'm open to all ideas for the bedroom.

Angelune, before you grab a chisel and a dust mask, firm up your definition of "nice brick." Brick that was meant to be covered from the git-go is laid using less-symmetrical bricks, with a much sloppier mortaring job than you see on visible brick. If you want a rougher, more industrial look, you're probably in huge luck -- but the odds of getting pretty brick on an interior are small.

Also think ahead to how you're going to hang things on that wall, as you'll be drilling into brick rather than nailing or screwing into lathe.

I'm not against it -- if we'd stayed back East, we would have left the basement stairs as exposed brick rather than replacing the wretched plaster -- just a huge fan of realistic expectations.

Juanito,

6-8 weeks for a kitchen and bathroom redo together. I think they said the bathroom separately would take 2 weeks, so if she got the cabinets installed at the same time or shortly after, that might be possible. I don't think redoing everything in the kitchen would happen in that timeframe, but I might be wrong.

I know that my contractor said that first, they trash everything, then install the kitchen cabinets and then the kitchen flooring. So maybe once the cabinets are in, she can do the floor, and then do the rest as she lives there.

PS - re falling air conditioners, there is some sort of NYU/Cooper Union building on 9th and Broadway (approximately) where the millions of air conditioners look as though they are perched incredibly precariously. I am probably the most oblivious person in this city, and I would speed up if I had to walk past that building.

If I'm going to die, I don't want it to be from an air conditioner, of all friggin' things.

wende - that's the problem with the hidden brick - it's hidden! but I've seen lots of exposed brick walls in Toronto apartments that were amazing. We have a pretty great tradition of brick-making right here in the city, and even the less-symmetrical bricks are 'pretty' to me. I like seeing the wavy lines of stacked brick vs. the perfectly straight ones on the outside.
AND - I bought a special drill bit for brick & ceramic a short while ago, because I couldn't hang shelves without drilling into the wall, and that's how I found myself with the red brick powder and a dream...

TRISH M's Q: Why not go with the 24" Viking range instead?

A: I am a pretty serious cook and cook often, so the 24" stove is not so appealling. Plus, the 30" viking has a corresponding 30" microwave/hood, while the 24" hood doesn't...we'll see, with the space I have, 24" makes more sense.

We will be neighbors - I'll be on Sullivan between Houston and Prince!

Thank you for all of the suggestions and words of consolation - I've obviously gotten overly ambitious, adding stress, rather than avoiding it. I will take a deep breath and prioritize as it is increasingly clear to me that I want to do a lot in very little time.

I will definitely considering posting befores, durings and afters...I would love the ongoing input/advice/suggestions.

Angelune -- Then I'd find a relatively hidden corner, put on a dust mask, and take a chisel to the wall. There should be lathe behind your plaster, and you don't want to cut much of that until you're sure of the project. So get a chunk of plaster down, then take a powerful flashlight and see what's back there. As long as the hole's small enough to patch and hidden enough that the patch doesn't have to be super-perfect, it's a no-risk exploration project.

Once you start dealing with dust, a spray bottle with water is your friend. Spray it on the plaster you haven't pulled down, before you start ripping away.

Oh -- and close off *everything* else with plastic sheeting and tape. Plaster dust is a huge pain and goes everywhere.

Hey cool! I'm between Houston & Prince too. You're going to love it there. Pepe Rosso and Once Upon a Tart are terrific, and Depression Modern has drool-inducing furniture. You also have a laundromat on that block - very convenient.

Congratulations BK!

Others are right when they say that your time frame is tight but give 9J builders a call
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/contractors/9j-builder-contractor-007717
and either ask for James Lee (as Nancy recommends) or Don Kwok (the guy I worked with). They are responsive and, as you can see from that thread, do great work. Ask them to estimate a timeline for you and a cost and this should give you the best idea of what is feasible.

Also, if you are buying a coop check for any balck out periods that they may have when contractors are not permitted to work. Some coops can be restrictive. 9J are fully bonded so you should have no problem in that respect.

BTW, Ikea cabinets are a great choice. Sturdy, good hardware and attractive.

BK, you've already received some great advice. I'd ad that I don't know if 30K is enough to do all that. Not knowing the size of your place it's tough to say how much the flooring would cost, and that could be significant depending on what you go with.

I love the Viking range, and should our range suffer an unfortunate accident I'll be replacing it with one.

Yes, I am psyched...I just wish we would close already so I could get rolling with all of this. All my big grandiose plans come from so many months of waiting - too much time to think. I just need to get in there already.

Are you in a walk-up?

I will be in a 5th (top floor) floor walk-up, which brings me to another question/issue...

I am concerned about moving and getting appliances/furniture delivered to a 5th floor walk up...any advice/suggestions or helpful annecdotes?

I've been spoiled thus far and lived in apt buildings with separate freight elevators for moving....Obviously, I am going to hire movers
and whatnot, but I have noticed that some places will not move items up stairs....only to the curb....

I had a Malber combo washer/dryer delivered to a fifth-floor walk up. Make sure they know that when you buy it, have frosty drinks available for the delivery guys, and tip well.

hi everyone.

i need some art advice.

last weekend i rearranged the furniture in my bedroom. it looks much better, but now the walls look bare for some reason, where they didn't before. i'm guessing the problem is that the art on the walls is configured for the previous furniture setup. one of the largest stretches of wall used to be next to my desk and dresser, so i was using it as a style drawer of sorts, taping up swatches, postcards, things cut out of the cb2 catalogue, etc. now that stretch of wall is above my bed and obviously not useful as a style drawer. i took down all the sketches and swatches and photos and such, and now the room looks so empty. what kind of art should go above my bed? right now i'm relatively broke and can't just run out to a gallery and buy something huge. most of the art and photos i have that need to be hung are relatively small. i'm reluctant to do a big arrangement of small framed things up there because i have this vague fear that some night everything will fall on my head as i sleep. i'm willing to wait to find the right piece, but again i probably won't be able to afford anything huge and outstanding anytime soon.

ideas? what 'should' go above one's bed?

opoponax -
Go to Pearl Paint and buy some stretcher bars such as an artist might stretch their own canvasses.

And stretch a fabric that you like across it, by starting your stapling in the centers of each side. Center of Side A, then C, then B, then D, and then another staple to the left and right of each of those, until you work your way to the end.

Of course you'll have to very carefully center the pattern or the image across that, and if you staple it BEHIND the bars (instead of at the edges the way it's usually done), you won't need picture frames.

Those stretcher bars are relatively cheap, and they probably sell them in pairs of a sizes, so you buy 2 pairs. If there is anything mysterious to you about how to put them together, the person that sells them is probably a young art student and will probably be happy to show you how.

The quickest form of temporary art that can't break your skull is a nice swath of dramatic fabric. If you want it flat-flat, staple the fabric tight over artists' canvas (or a similar framework) before hanging it.

And Curtis types way faster than I do AND knows more about framework!

It's always a good day when I find I've just agreed with Curtis, p(too), or Enrique. (And others, but those come to mind before the third cup of coffee.)

Okay, so with respect to my budget and timeframe, here is my plan for the month of July:

Bathroom Must: replace floors since tiles are missing and/or loose and a terrible rust color, and add shelving/cabinet.

Bathroom Lust, but can wait: new toilet with built in bidet (sp?) and sink.

Kitchen Must: new stove/range and refrigerator.

Kitchen Lust, but can wait: new cabinetry and countertops.

With respect to the flooring of the studio, my intention was to sand the existing flooring and paint it white (with a nice shinier-than-not white veneer) - I would like to do this myself, but perhaps it is a lot to take on if I have never done any home repairs/renovations before...still researching this.

I also intend to paint the open brick wall white - I know there are a lot of disparate opinions out there about this, but i have given it much consideration and changed my mind a few times, and have finally decided to paint the brick wall white and hopefully visually enlarge the small studio....this seems like something I could do on my own as well....how hard could it be?

I think this is feasible in a month's time: with one contractor working on the bathroom and me doing the floors and wall...and if i am very very lucky, getting someone who is available to do the kitchen cabinets as well.

I will hold off on building a partial wall between the kitchen and living space since i am not sure what I want exactly...I like the idea of building in extra counter space/cabinets, forming more of an L, rather than a straight 7' wall of kitchen....thereby creating more kitchen and some separation.

Any advice on the floor project? Should I leave it to professionals?

Oh, horror, the coop, even worse, the management company - I temporarily forgot about that evil entity.

Again, thanks to everyone for being so helpful to me on my very first day on this site....thank you to my friend Garland who forwarded me the link. If anyone is interested in a swanky JR 1BR in Gramercy, check out his classified posting from last week.

I am, officially, addicted to this site and my productivity at work has plummeted.

Hi Fiona,

Thanks for that. I am "in the process" myself of startinga kitchen redo. Would you highly recommend the contractors you used?

MissPinkKate -
I say that if you're getting a red couch from Ikea, then wait until you have it to paint. If there is some part of the couch that is removable, like let's say a pillow, then take that pillow to the paint store and find a red that matches the pillow.

THEN... chose a pink that's a lighter shade of that very same red, because that's how the colors tend to be organized on the paint chip sample things. That way, although you're doing pink and red, they will be compatible versions of each other, and neither of them will make the other look like a near-miss in an orange or purple direction.

the opoponax -

perhaps paint the wall or the aread where your bed is? maybe go way over the top and paint yourself a headboard of sorts? if it looks bad, you can alwasy paint over.

in addition to hanging a tapestry or fabric-on-canvas, how about hanging a drape? i've seen this done and it can look quite nice. install a rod way up high, that is about the width, maybe wider than your bed, and hang a long cloth (nice soft look that still defines your sleeping area. perhaps a very light almost sheer cheescloth type drape - some floor lighting or back lighting can make it look very nice.

That's good advice, curtis- although I was hoping to paint before move in, which will be before I have any of my furniture. Hmmmmmm. Will have to think some more.

wende -
Thanks for "it's a good day..." but I assure it's not a rare day for me to agree with you. You come up with PLENTY of good yourself that I don't think of, ya know. I just don't always happen to think of it at the same time like today!

MissPinkKate -
OK ... another way to do it is get a handful of paint chips from the paint store and drag yourself back to Ikea, and have another look at the couch on display that's like the one you're getting, right?

If they don't have the exact same couch, another piece (love seat?) in the same series, just to make sure it's the same red.

THEN... while you're there, figure out which one it is, then choose your pink from that one, of course, and then throw away the other paint chips in the nearest trash can at the store, so you don't confuse yourself!

MissPinkKate: I LOVE pink and red. While Curtis is the real color expert around here, I just want to encourage you to be bold in your color choice. I looked at so many pinks that my head was spinning, and I think ended up choosing a "safe" option. Stay in the color family, but be BOLD! (And I hope you will post a photo when you are done.)

what should go above one's bed? one, i think, sometimes two.

jokes aside, i have a long piece of brocade with -- yes! -- peonies hanging above my bed. it makes me happy. i have a canopy bed so it made the hanging easy.

i'd also like to hang some fabric in the living room -- not sure how, but definitely not framed. advice?

MissPinkKate - you might want to keep in mind if you're looking at something slipcovered from IKEA (and most of the really affordable my-first-couches they carry are slipcovered) that they don't always have all the colors in stock all the time, and they sometimes do have colors that weren't listed in the catalogue. which means that unless you are SERIOUSLY persistent, you can't really guarantee that you will be getting the couch in that exact shade you wanted.

if i were you, i wouldn't match the paint super-precisely unless you really and truly do know that you will be getting that exact slipcover. it might be easier to wait, or to be more flexible with your paint color. because if my experience is any indication, it can be difficult to get EXACTLY what you wanted when you just show up at your local IKEA to buy what you liked in the catalogue.

BK: In regards to your bathroom lust of new toilet with bidet, can I suggest a retro-fit bidet? We got one for about $500 that replaced the set of our toilet. It's got a heated seat, bidet, air dry, soft close, all the good stuff. And it looks quite nice as well. Ours is a Cleanlet. You may find this gets you all the features you want at a significantly lower price.

Opoponax, I've always been partial to color in the bedroom for art. Above our bed are two pieces my wife painted. They are nudes that have been "pixilated" so from up close they are simply a color field of squares while from afar they are nekkid ladies. One piece is predominantly red tones, the other is blue tones.

BK: Do the new bathroom appliances in the same surge of rehab as the new bathroom floor, as the fixture placement means holes in the floor.

Save the big kitchen surge for later; just do the appliances now. Kitchens are complicated. If you plan a later wall with kitchen cabinets, you'll find it easier to match and fit cabinets by doing all the cabinet replacement at once.

Seal the brick before you paint it, and the whole job gets easier.

Your biggest bottlenecks are going to be that you're doing a lot of treatments -- painted floor, retiled floor, painted brick -- that require drying and curing time. Your schedule has to prevent foot traffic and even DUST near surfaces that are still setting.

oh, and i forgot to say thanks for the ideas, everyone. the stretched canvas thing is something i've considered for a while. i've dabbled in painting in the past, so i'm inclined to just paint something on a large canvas. or possibly stretch a canvas which i've already applied one of my own designs to, or something more personal than just 'stretch canvas. paint it a nice color that matches the duvet. the end.' i have a really beautiful piece already (which is too small to use here) which is one of my design inspirations for the room. i may just take the oppurtunity to paint a companion piece.

wende - what fabrics, other than canvas, muslin, linen, and the usual painterly textiles, stretch well? there's a strong textile influence throughout my apartment that could be really neat to bring into my bedroom this way. i have a beautiful african mudcloth which i'd love to use for this, but it's an irreplaceable gift my grandparents brought back from West Africa when they lived there. staples probably wouldn't ruin it, but i'd hate to start stretching it only to have it rip down the middle or something.

bk - i think some kind of 'painting a headboard' is what i'm going to do eventually, but i'm going to be repainting the room in just a few months so i can't do it yet. and i have two huge windows which already have curtains, not to mention hanging fabric hiding some unsightly stuff in the remainder of the room. so if i put more draped fabric behind the bed it would be kind of like living in the emergency room, or like that terrible 'pullman car room' they did on trading spaces a few years ago.

Thanks, JenDC- I'm really excited to decorate my first apartment! Yipee! I will post pictures of my decorated place when it's ready.

Opoponax -- Look for a fabric with a tight, flat weave. Be wary of embroidery and avoid beading. The quality of broadcloth sold for quilting should be fine, for instance.

I'm having a flashback to this new, non-valuable African cloth I bought in the NYC Garment District and never did anything with so finally gave away. Deep background color, gold pattern, sturdy flat weave... but that was 5+ years ago, and it's probably long gone.

hmm. on closer inspection the mudcloth is a large piece sewn together from long narrow strips. i'm not sure the seams on it would survive stretching. ah, well. i'm thinking of painting directly on un-gessoed linen or muslin instead.

Nope, don't stretch that! I'd think about having that professionally mounted and framed, when you're feeling luxurious or can find someone to trade favors with.

I'd actually suggest doing kitchen appliances at the same time as the rehab, because it might allow you appliance options you can't consider now, working within current cabinet constraints.. which would change if you changed cabinets...

BK - Would you be willing to post the floorplan of your unit? It would be interesting to see what work, indeed, is plausible in such a tight
time line without impeding traffic through your unit.

bk--
For reality's sake, start also thinking in "working days" and not "a month." I have a friend still surviving a four-week reno, and he found actual productivity happens in only about 3-4 days a week... on a *good week*, especially when mulitple trades are involved.

One thing you have to consider and factor in is lead time on things you order... sometimes the silliest things will hose up your schedule because of delivery back-up.

So factor in ordering, shipping and delivery into your schedule of "twenty working days" to help manage your own expectation.

rasil,

hanging fabric without stretching? well it depends on the fabric, something lightweight will flutter with the AC/heat. I think lightweight fabric should be stretched/secured unless you want a very casual look. what kind of fabric are you thinking about and what kind of look?

if it's heavy enough you can do what you do with rugs/tapestries. You can sew a muslin pocket into the back and hang using a rod. or you can sew velcro to the back and hammer in a wooden support with the matching velcro. as i understand it the velcro is what museums now use (less stress then hanging through the pocket).

I have a woven wall rug hanging above my bed and it has a muslin pocket in the back that i slid a long metal rod through. the rod is supported by two nails coming out of the wall. actually secured is not a good word, it's actually sitting on the nails. the weight of the rug pulling down is enough to hold it in place. here's a picture to get an idea.

http://static.flickr.com/25/61479360_1c65334a06.jpg?v=0

Fiona--
Do you need things framed or just mats cut?

The IT gods are frowning on me today. I'm trying to submit my 'garden' to the Greenest Thumb contest and I don't think it's going through.

* Sniff *.

Eep! My last comment was meant to be a question. Any recommendations?

the opoponax, paint or a drape would be my choice.

I'm liking the swing out curtain rods... so you could have panels in back and the sides of the rod would swing out on either side of the bed with a fabric panel on each one. For best effect, hang this HIGH... right near the ceiling.
The effect is like a topless half-tester made of fabric.

IKEA has (or had) these great sheer colorful curtain panels which are extremely long. I have two of them in an acid green.

I used something similar in a friend's apartment but we placed a white-backed Japanese print behind the scrim of fabric and taped it flat with surgical tape (white wall) so the image appeared to be floating behind the fabric.

minh, heavy silk. your room is so vivid, thanks for the picture and tips. a little fluttering is ok, i think but i'm afraid sewing would damage the material.

P2,

Honestly, both, but my most pressing need is a complicated triple mat for these small vintage vending machine game cards ("Your fortune says that you will marry a cowboy..." along with hysterical copy). I bought a frame with triple matting off the shelf, in the hope that it would work and be cheap, but alas, the cards are slightly too small. Plus, I'm sure I need archival matting.)

Juanito, I have used one of the contractors I am interviewing for a small job, and he was fine. I haven't committed to either yet, but if you are interested, let me know and I'll give you my email and will pass on their info. My friend also had a recommendation, but I haven't found out yet if he works in Queens. My two candidates are fine, I think, because they've done decent work in my building, but they are not exactly aesthetic giants--so you would really have to guide them. I think they both think I'm this crazy lady who wants--horrors!--an orange wall in the kitchen.

Fiona: take pics!

Fiona--
My favorite framer in the city is Steven Amedee Custom Framing in Tribeca. Not cheap, but the end results never fail to amaze.

I'd suggest getting the matting redone at the same time as the framing if at all possible.

I'm pretty sure he'd also use your existing frame (if structurally sound and posing no construction or archival problems) and just mount/mat/reframe.

Tell him patrick sent you!

Fiona, tell them the kitchen is a warmest place in the house, literally and spiritually, and orange is the happiest/warmest color there is.
In any case, contractors are to implement their clients' decisions, not to consult re: colors etc.

*bk, natural/conventional sequence of renovation consist of the following stages:
-programming (you've done that, at least 80%) - the concept of the new space and list of changes you need to achieve it
-design development, from preliminary to final, with plans/elevations/details drawn. In your case, scaled drawings of bathroom and kitchen with all cabinetry/fixtures detailed
-ordering of fixtures/supplies. Accent pieces, like free-hanging mirror for the bathroom, could be added later, fixtures that require installation (recessed mirror medicine cabinet, f.ex.), need to be physically stored in your apartment by the time contractor steps in. Building supplies are usually contractor's responsibility: any timber, sheetrock, plumbing pipes etc is not your concern.
-demolition, according to your drawn plan. You should decide beforehead, what's to keep. If you're particularly fond of, say, kitchen sink, you should indicate on your plan - "sink to remain", let them remove it temporarily and then reinstall when new cabinetry will be in place.
- construction itself. Be it only cabinetry, a partial height partition, floor finish install - this should be the most clear part in your contractor's estimate, as to how many people/hours/$per hour or whole job it will take.

All those advices above, re: coop's permissions, hours of operation, deliveries are the good ones. I'll add to it issues of contstruction noise (some tenants can't stand sound of drills at 8 am, for some reason), garbage/waste disposal and schedule of payment to your contractor (don't pay in advance more then 1/3 of the total, even on the smallest jobs) - all require consideration.

Sorry for the long posting.

But I got a few free time (yeah! free as a bird) before I start at the newer, better place next Monday and I'm filled with the goodwill and love for the Universe- so ask away!

Angelune --

Before you decide to hack off your plaster and expose brick, consider certain practicalities:

1. Is the wall an exterior or interior wall? If its an exterior wall, how thick is it and does it need pointing (mortar repair) on the outside? We used to have a long (27 foot) exposed brick wall and just paid $$$ to cover it up -- it was freezing cold in winter, and cracks in the exterior mortar did not help.

2. If you do expose the brick, use masonry sealer after you are done with ripping out plaster and the dust settles. Otherwise the wall will shed mortar dust and dirt, and be generally filthy (another reason why we covered up).

3. You may need to rent a dumpster to dispose of the plaster. It probably doesnt look like a lot of plaster on your wall, but if its real plaster there will be wood lathing. It will also create more dust, dirt, and debris than you imagine. Most likely your municipality will not let you throw this stuff out with your regular garbage.

Good luck with whatever wall you decide!

If anyone wants to see how a wicker room divider became a headboard this past weekend, click on my name. I'm pretty excited how it turned out.

Curtis, nice job, as always! Looks great--very tropical (which is fitting, in this weather).

Tat, yes, I have already steeled myself to be the crazy lady, so I will not pushed around. One of the contractors is nice, but resists a little when I describe what I want done. I just get a little pushy myself, and he goes, "Well, sure, that would nice!"

Enrique, maybe I will take pics to see if I can get them to turn out...

P2, thanks for the recommendation. I will definitely check him out.

Excellent as always, Curtis.
2 things:
* I'm not sure the angling off that spacer at the corner was necessary. Wouldn't it look more complete if the spacer continue up to the corner of the wall return to the window opening and ends up in square? As well as the intermediate one down below?
* And now, to continue to cozy up this nook (in habitual fashion...the master's work is never quite done), picture a double-storied shelf on the side of the bed where the floor lamp now standing, rather intrusive in the bed's private space. The depth of the lower story is the same as the depth of the radiator, the upper one - 2/3 of that. The length of the lower story - up to the window sill, the corner of which is removed so as it forms one continuous line, as if in built-in. The length of the upper story - 2/3 of the lower one.
The height of the lower story - at the hight of the window sill, the upper story - 1ft higher. There are equally spaced 3 or 4 vertical supports between stories, making structure uniform and stable. Stain - to match wicker of the headboard. On place of the torchiere there could be installed an adjustable height wall sconce..something like this: http://tinyurl.com/zrq7j

What do you think?

Correction: the depth of the lower story is the same as the corner column's; the upper one - 2/3 of that, or the same os the radiator's; whichever you decide is best.

BK-
Congrats on the new place! I just moved into my first apartment in March and I have to say, I had all sorts of ideas at first I wanted all done at once and before I moved in...what it really came down to is painting the whole place and changing the sink and toilet. I agree with what everyone says though - wait and get a feel for the space before you do anything drastic like remove or add a wall. Even painting the brick...all these things you can never reverse and often times after you are in the space you realize the idea isn't the best anyways.
It took me 3 months to get the right couch and I was thisclose to getting one before I moved in and in retrospect I am SO GLAD I waited because I never would have been able to fit the ones I thought I wanted before.
Have fun with it...live like a camper in the place while changes are going on...it helps you appreciate the finished products so much more. If you just do it all at once, it's just not as much fun, now is it?
I am intrigued by the bidet/toilet combo...any links?

Touche, Curtis!

Glad to see you have rejoined us Enrique!

Lovely, Curtis!

I was able to anticipate your reasoning exactly as far as "let's turn it sideways!" From there on, my reaction was, "Whoa -- and he thought of THAT, and he's RIGHT -- I would never have known how to make that work!" It looks completely like a headboard now, and it fits so well.

Hey Curtis, that was really cool - thanks for sharing the process. I made a litter box out of a cut up Shoji screen, did not take pics as I went along but would like to attatch a link for you guys to see pictures of Niko the cat modeling it for you...how do I do it? They are saved as a set on Flikr, should be easy, right?

Curtis, fabulous, as usual! Has anyone done a similar headboard using a padded frame covered with fabric? I seem to recall either Maxwell doing this on a Mission Organization episode or seeing it on some HGTV show. I'm searching for the perfect fabric to pull our bedroom together and haven't worked out the logistics of making and padding the frame.

the opoponax, re: paint above the bed suggested by several other folks. To give you an idea of how it would look, check out a book called "Domesticities: At Home with The New York Times Magazines" (copyright 2005). It features a loft with blocks of color on the focal wall of each room, in this instance as a way to make the scale of the loft more human and to draw attention to the couple's art collection. The art isn't exactly my style, but the technique worked beautifully. I'm trying to decide where to use it in our house.

BK
The worst part of a bathroom renovation is the fine dust when they jack-hammer off the old tiles. It gets into everything and hangs in the air. I left the place alone for a week to let it settle, and bought a reconditioned vacuum cleaner for $90. Cleaning up after each dusty job eventually burnt it out.

After stripping, you need a plumber, electrician, maybe waterproofing, and a tiler. I also needed the subfloor replaced because the original went with the tiles attached to it.

If you can find anyone on such short notice - and I called 32 plumbers before finding anyone who would:
1. do a small job.
2. work for a woman
you must still buy and have delivered all the stuff you need, which must be on site so when the tradesmen arrive there is no waiting.

I thought August was the month everyone left NY.

Also I have never seen a painted floor that didn;t look like **** within months of it being done. If you want to be a slave to a white floor, consider Marmoleum. A studio is small, so it will be cost-effective.

I look forward to seeing the pics.

Joan, Fiona, Tat, Wende, Serra, Abbe -
Thanks! It was kind of fun, and basically it was actually inspired by the West Elm headboard, one of which the friend I did this for had just bought for the bed she actually uses. This (believe it or not) was for a bedroom that is rarely ever used, except for sitting and drinking her morning coffee, so an affordable way do it really seemed like the answer.

Tat -
The angled thing is probably something that you'd have to see in the room to really see why it seemed like the answer, because I know that it looks counter-productive, and the photo may also be confusing. It really is squarely up against the wall, but that little bit is just a way to make it not appear so "installed" at the very end from a distance at the side when viewed from a love seat in the corner, which doesn't show in the picture.

I like your suggestions for that corner, but between the fact that that bedroom is never used and that my friend has such sentimental attachment to that floor lamp and how it shines up on the bas relief plaque above it, that probably will stay as-is. And that swinging-arm lamp you found is to be lived for. I'll point it out to her just in case, because it really would fit in well with the kinds of things she has -- not just in that room, but all over her apartment. You're VERY perceptive!

BK, there are a few extra ideas I have to add on, that fit in with your plans or suggestions from other people. Yup, I'm sending you back to IKEA.

Kitchen planner tool is available to download for Windows-users. I'm on Mac, so I don't know how it works, other than what pictures they show online.

Those pictures, inspiration pictures, the description and planner can be found here:
http://tinyurl.com/8k8op

Try out all the layouts you want, without having to have anything installed. It should give you the price of your kitchen, and a listing of items you've selected. Which means YOU can pick up the items yourself, potentially saving money. And YOU can carry up the flat-pack boxes without paying someone else to do so. You really want to pay $20.00 an hour for someone else to do it?

IKEA also has items for kitchen and bath that are "free-standing" units. You may be able to use these instead of, or in addition to, the items you have planned. Like VARDE:
http://tinyurl.com/lljsp

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the last item on that page. The free-standing unit with allllllll those nifty drawers with see-through glass fronts. No wondering where your dining textiles are, you can see the cloth napkins. Or the steel tools. Or the cutlery. Or the spice drawer.

Consider: Hiring someone to hang wall cabinets, and whatever the sink will go into. And using free-standing units for the rest of your kitchen. This means you CAN move them around. You don't need to pay someone to install them. You can assemble them yourself. You can buy them over time as money allows.

No power tools required to assemble. Your neighbors will be thankful. Which also means if you want to work on the kitchen and promise not to drop tools on the hard floor, you can do this work at 3 AM if you want. No hammering, of course. But screwing is fine.

Similar bath items exist. Browse here:
http://tinyurl.com/p2v52

Again, a huge time/money saver. You have them install stuff you need them to install. Refloor. Hook up plumbing. Then you measure out your space, check out the options, and buy over time.

Your kitchen and bath will be planned out in advance, you'll know what goes where, but you won't need them to install any of the free-standing units. Just fix up the walls real pretty, patch holes from old lower cabinets. Install upper cabinets as needed.

You've just saved potential thousands of dollars. You can spread out expenses over time. And you may find you don't need as many cabinets as you thought. So you don't have to buy more.

Oh, another product for kitchen, they have rolling cabinets. Not real fancy, but real practical. If you have a counter alone installed, with nothing but open space below, you can roll the cabinets in and out. Why roll them around at all? The cabinets can serve as additional prep space, exactly where you need it. Like the ATTITYD:
http://tinyurl.com/kxkl4

AND, you can use that countertop now as a desk, or even as a dining area if you roll the drawers elsewhere. Those rolling drawers can also be used in bedroom or bathroom, if needed. Handy if you have limited funds starting off, and they'll do fine for years to come while you consider other options (if wanted).

Thanks for clarifying the need for a larger range. Not everyone IS a serious cook, and they need little more than boiling water, uh, like me.

We had a "Good Question" on what to do with a brick wall area that was all concrete. I want you to check out the picture of the "in the middle of renovation". The heap o' stuff shown under the title "Now is not a good time": http://www.gordy.com/

Yeah, that's potentially what you could have in the middle of everything. Scary, ain't it? And, yes, those after pictures, they are IKEA cabinets.

I did some pictures for his concrete area here (there are more I did that aren't up):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/96179754@N00/

That IS another idea for your brick. A large, framed in area with panels of something, painted. Also look at Matt's Frame Wall there. You'll find a link to the original post in that one. Matt has all sorts of neat ideas about putting that mural up on MDF.

If you chose to have panels actually mounted on your brickwork, leaving the brick as-is, and have the joints of the panels finished...or having space between to create large 4'x8' panels, you can then have some FUN with those.

Paint them. Wallpaper them. Hang art. Hang mirrors. Make the world's largest set of bulletin boards. Paint them with chalkboard paint. Find some kid talented with the spray paint tagging the building, and have him/her come up and do your panels.

I know this is SOOO long and I'll get in trouble. Uh, but with the free-standing kitchens/baths, if you ever move, you can take your kitchen and bathroom with you. And if someone had used that before you moved in, you'd have a beautiful clean slate to start with, how convenient would that have been?

Abbe,
i did a very dumbed down version of a padded headboard. How I did it: I bought a piece of plywood the width of my bed and the length as much as I needed to go from the floor to as high as I wanted it to be. Then, I covered with batting and fabric, using the staple gun to attach it all to the ply. Then, I used the staple gun to make indentations to make it look like I'd tufted it and put covered buttons on those areas with a glue gun. (used covered button kits)

How I'd do it now: I would make a frame with boards on either end or find a sturdier material--the ply I used is flimsy. Plus, this would allow a shorter amount of ply, fabric, and batting. You could even give the headboard depth this way. I'd also put a layer of thin foam before putting on the batting--making the thing cushier. I'd also do REAL tufting (now I have a drill--before, I didn't) because I've had to reattach the buttons with less than stellar results.

I do get great compliments on it, though, despite my un-schooled approach to doing it. It's WAY cheaper than buying one upholstered, too. I think in total, I spent $40 (got the fabric on deep discount) And, it's fairly easy. Truly. The hardest part was getting my huge piece of plywood home--I had it on my car top, and it tended to act as a sail. I was petrified it was going to fly off and kill someone.

MissPinkKate - I know you didn't ask for advice on the Ikea couch, but I've gotta warn you that my red Ikea couch sagged about a year after having it, and then the nice red slip cover turned a dusty pink in some areas because of light exposure.

I would not, even for the price, buy another Ikea couch.

BK,

Congratulations on the new apartment! You've gotten fabulous advice, so I'll say only - enjoy yourself! I bought a cute alcove studio 18 months ago, and I'm still renovating -- and it's OK! I put in a new kitchen with materials from Krup Kitchens - very nice guys. Elite Floors of Yonkers put in the bamboo floor in the kitchen, and did a great job. They also refinished the floors in the rest of the apartment. By the way, bamboo feels very nice under bare feet. Still puzzling over the backsplash, but I'll get there.

A friend of mine just redid her bathroom, and she has nothing but praise for her contractor. Here's his info:
Tim Gibbs
(917) 816-6648
ajackbeck(at)mac(dot)com

Be sure you've got at least one nice plant that makes you smile, wine and cheese in the refrigerator, and something to sit on. Then invite over friends who'll give you wild, worthless, and sometimes brilliant advice, and you'll have a great journey.

Thank You MichalNcheese.

I have always wondered , "How nice is the red couch" !? at Ikea

i think it depends what piece you actually buy from Ikea. i've had the Lyksele chair/bed for two years, converted it back and forth just about every day, and never had any structural problems with it at all. Of course I'm not expecting to keep it forever, but honestly it cost me under $200 and if it fell apart tomorrow it would still have been a great buy.

i have a charcoal grey slipcover, which has not faded noticeably, though for a year it was in a room with negligible direct sunlight.

i have a feeling that their futon and sleeper couches are probably in general better buys than stuff like the klippan, etc. a good friend of mine also has an ikea convertible which he uses as both his bed and couch and which he's had for 3 years. still in fabulous condition.

nice job curtis! really inspiring and helpful. thank you for sharing the process.

Ok, if I did this correctly, you can link to my Flickr page where you can see the litterbox I made with a shoji screen...hope it works!

Serra - Well done!

Oh my goodness that is amazing! Won't he/she scratch the paper panes though?

Niko is not a big scratcher, but his sister Macy does enjoy the scratching through the rice paper. This is my second attempt at making one of these (I just moved in March so I dumped the other one and made a new and improved one) and I made the two ends out of foam core since these are the sides Macy likes to scratch the most. You can see a few tears in the rice paper though, so it does happen - I have been thinking of lining the whole inside with foam core to protect it, depending on how bad it gets.

Serra, that is genius! Will you post how you did it? That would also contain tracked litter...

I'm guessing this will go unanswered since we're up to 88 posts on this thread but here goes anyway. I'm looking for a gallery hanging system for home use. I have 14 framed photos I'd like to display on one large wall and the thought of lining all these up and banging nails into the brick wall pains me. Any advice as to where I can buy such a system?

serra -- bravo! that is very impressive, and impressive cats to keep from ruining it.

Reef, the Conran Shop has something that has been mentioned here before. Not sure what it's called, though.

Someone else posted the other day about some system that they were trying out. You hammer in one rod and attach different hanging threads (for lack of better word) to it. Maybe someone else remembers? It was in one of the open threads, I think.

Serra,
That is so cool and Nico is very photo-savvy.

Does the box have a top on it? Since cat likes to claw the rice paper, will it be easy to periodically replace that?

I don't know if I am supposed to add to thread 223 or this one, but wanted to thank everyone once again for the great advice.

I have decided to take it slow and get to know the space better. I am giving myself a 24 hour break from thinking about renovations as I just received (on the eve of closing) news that my lender has changed the terms on me....again....words cannot explain my anger and frustration right now.

So when I am in a better place in a day or two, I will re-visit this thread and start taking notes on all of the valuable advice.

Reef, in one of the threads about 3 week ago *anon (I think) did the whole search right before our eyes, looking exactly for the gallery system. The method, if I remember correctly, was to google the magic words, then try to get opinions from customers who actually bought various systems that Google fetched, and then to sift according to geographical proximity. I think it ended with only one manufacturer.

*anon, am I right?

Yes, I used three panels of the shoji screen, the two long sides (one with 4 squares open for entry) and the third on the top with a hinge so you can lift it and a knob on it to grab. As mentioned earlier, both the left and right smaller sides are foam core and the whole thing is afixed onto a rolling platform so I can roll it out of it's nook to open and clean it. In my old apartment, once the cats had torn a lot of the rice paper I started attaching different colored squares in each section - it looked great, a litte Mondrian-ish.

BK, hang in there.
I think the lender can't do anything drastic: they're bound by their offer in writing. But even if they did - 2 more days, an you'll be the owner. And then, if/when you'll have your 20% equaty reached, you could always switch lenders (refinance).
There are no "dead end" situations. Remember - you're not in the corner.

Curtis:
Being perceptive is in my job description.

It's not necessary to get rid of the torchiere alltogether. Just relocate it to someplace, where she can actually use it (at the corner next to a nice cushy armchair, where it's so delightful to sink in with the book, f.ex.). Sconce on that wall could perform the same function, which is up&down-light (down - illuminate the bed, up - the plaque above), and in addition could be swinged out of the way.

But, of course, it's all a lazy speculation; subject to client' priorities. I enjoy "in-between" time in my (not so cool) apartment, and invent things to do with myself, till next Monday.
Any suggestions?

Hi Fiona,

OK. I think it would be good to exchange e-mails and perhaps commiserate on this entire process.
I'm relying a lot of friends' and other people's
recommendations for the contractors.

Any help would be appreciated!

thanks for the advice regarding the exposed brick wall. I don't think drafts from the outside would be a problem, and I was considering applying some kind of sealant afterwards, however, the idea of renting a dumpster is sort of disheartening. Maybe I'll wait until I'm not renting anymore...

Your program introduced a product called liquid sandpaper. I have called several paint stores in my area and they don't have a clue as to what I am talking about. Could you please help! My contractor used the wrong finish on my stairs and skirts, I have an asthmatic husband and new paint throughout our home and it sure would be nice not to have sawdust EVERY WHERE!
Frantic with the "stairway to heaven".

Thanks so much for the gallery system advice. I'll look back in the archived threads and see if I can find the info.

rasil- regarding unframed textiles. I am not sure what your hanging or what your taste is. I have a long piece of indonesian ikat with fringe on either end, I bought a thin wooden dowel and loosely tied it (single knot) to the dowel and suspended it from the ceiling. If it is a piece you value I would advise against any pins or nails or hooks on the fabric. You can get creative regarding what you use as a hanger. (I have seen pieces suspended from wire or fishing line as well) I love some of the indonesian ones on novica. http://www.novica.com/search/searchresults.cfm?searchtype=quick&txt=1®ionid=1&from=3&filterbycategory=0&keyword=hanger.
If it is a quilt generally you can make small "sleeve" that you attach (sew) to back and run a dowel through and many quilting sites will have instructions on how to do this.
good luck

I don't know if anyone will see my post, but I am hoping some can advise.
We are interested in finding a cheaper version of this table.
http://www.designpublic.com/shop/offi/630
I am pretty sure I have seen one, but can't recall where I saw it.

Thanks!

Work Full Time/Part Time from the comfort of your home and earn 350-650 dollars daily .Don't panic for your utility bills .Get paid twice in a month.

I recently had this same problem when renovating my loft in Tribeca, when a real estate agent friend of mine gave me the number of a contractor he knew. It was difficult for me to believe that a "20 something" had the experience to handle the job, but now I'm a believer. He's excellent and has excellent references. He gave me a fair price and did perfect work. I've given his name to all of my friend. I recommend anyone in need calls him. His name is John Wilson and his number is 610-509-2794. Tell him Tovah sent you. Good luck!